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Prairie Fibers
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| A Peak at My Studio Life |
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| Cochineal Vat |
| Wednesday, September 09, 2009 |
| 4 ounces of Cochineal was used to dye alum mordanted silk velvet, dupioni, and organa fabrics. Labels: Alum, Cochineal, Dye, Dyeing, Dyes, Fabric, Mordant, Natural, Organza, Silk, Vat, Velvet |
posted by k baxter packwood @ 6:53 PM  |
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| Blouse |
| Tuesday, August 25, 2009 |
 Rust dyed cotton blouse over dyed with logwood purple yeilded this lovely charocoal with deep purple tones. Labels: Botanical, Cotton, Dyed, Dyes, Fabric, Hand, Logwood, Natural, Purple, Rust, Shirt, Vegetable |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 6:58 PM |
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| Rust Dyed Blouse |
| Monday, August 24, 2009 |
Rust Dyed Blouse which is currently residing in a logwood vat.Labels: Blouse, Botanical, Charcoal, Dye, Dyed, Dyes, Natural, Reclaimed, Recycle, Recycled, Rust, Shirt, Vegetable |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 2:45 PM |
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| Madder Root on Cotton and Monitor Colors |
| Wednesday, August 12, 2009 |
In case your monitor is reading tans and beige be rest assured that the colors in my Madder Root on Vintage Trims post are in fact peach, coral, and orange! AND there's even a bright neon yellowish to orangish on the nylon cotton blend. NOTE that colors DO vary from monitor to monitor, and my monitor is set to CMYK mode.
While dyeing cotton fabrics does involve a certain amount of work bright colors CAN be obtained on cotton and linen fabrics! Don't be discouraged by what other's say bright colors ARE obtainable on cotton and linen. I've been dyeing cotton for over 15 years now and I'm living proof that it is indeed possible.Labels: Botanical, Bright, Coral, Cotton, Dyes, Fabric, Madder, Madder Root, Natural, Neon, Orange, Peach, Vegetable, Yellow |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 9:30 PM |
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| Madder Root Dyed Vintage Lace and Trims |
| Tuesday, August 11, 2009 |
Labels: Alum, Antique, Botanical, Doilie, Dye, Extract, Lace, Madder, Madder Root, Mordant, Natural, Old, Ruffle, Runner, Trim, Trims, Vegetable, Vintage |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 1:21 PM |
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| Today's Dye Session |
| Sunday, August 09, 2009 |
 Today's dye session consisted of a madder root extract vat and a logwood purple extract vat. The madder root vat contains a combination of cotton and linen vintage trims. The logwood vat contains vintage damask napkins and linen napkins. Labels: Bark, Botanical, Dyes, Extract, Logwood, Madder, Madder Root, Natural, Purple, Root, Vegetable |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 5:32 PM |
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| Basic Natural Dyeing Safety |
| Friday, July 31, 2009 |
Dye Safety
Copyright 2003
Kimberly Baxter Packwood
Never assume that because it’s a natural dye that it’s safe!
Many people have allergies to grasses, weeds, flowers and trees.
IF you are a highly sensitive/allergic person then be sure of what you are dyeing WITH before dyeing.
IF you have severe allergies consult with your doctor prior to dyeing with grasses, flowers, tree parts, or any unknown or known weed.
Always work in an area that is designated for studio/dye work.
Never use dye materials, mordants or other dyestuffs in your designated cooking areas!
Use only dedicated dye equipment that is used for dyeing/surface design only. Never use this equipment for cooking food for human consumption.
Use a high quality respirator when handling dye extracts and mordants.
Work in an adequately ventilated area.Labels: Dyeing, Instructions, Natural, Safe, Safety, Studio |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 12:21 PM |
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| Stirring the Indigo Fermentation Vat |
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 Here you can see the madder root, which has yet to break down, under the indigo water's surface the water has a blue foam on the top but has not turned a dark blue yet. This vat requires more fermentation time before it will become usable.
 The vat will start out dark blue color you will need to beat air into the vat to get it to reduce at this time. Beating the indigo fermentation vat seems to defy all logic when it comes to indigo dyeing - where you are constantly being told to NOT introduce Oxygen into the vat, this is the one time you get to stir the dickens out of your indigo vat and it results in great colors!  Here the color is beginning to turn a dark pea green color, it needs further reduction so keep stirring until it turns yellow. Labels: Botanical, Dye, Green, Indigo, Natural, Pea, Vat, Vegetable, Yellow |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 12:12 PM |
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| Indigo Fermentation Vat |
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Natural Indigo Fermentation Vat
Copyright 2006
Kimberly Baxter Packwood
Natural Indigo Fermentation Vat Mini-Vat Instructions
1.0 ounce Natural Indigo Ground
0.5 ounce Madder Root cut into fine pieces
0.5 ounce Bran (Wheat works best, Oat will also work)
3.0 ounce Soda Ash
Stainless Steel, or Enamel, Pot. A plastic bucket may be substituted for the pot, be sure that has a tight fitting lid.
Place warm water, not boiling, into pot, preferably one that holds more than 2 gallons of water.
WARNING: Wear respirator when working with ground indigo, anything in powdered form will float easily in the air making it easily inhaled. This is not good for your lungs!
WARINGING: Soda Ash is highly caustic, wear gloves and dust mask when handling soda ash. Avoid contact with skin.
Dissolve ground indigo in warm tap water, enough to cover and make a rough paste.
Note: The ground Indigo will float at the top of the vat if just thrown into the water make your paste first. The indigo at this point is not completely dissolved, once introduced to the vat; it will dissolve after a few days in the vat.
Add madder root, bran, and soda ash to the warm water stir well then add indigo paste to the vat. Cover, but not tightly, and apply heat source.
Stir the pot once, or twice, a day during the reduction period with one gentle stir. If you stir the vat too often this will introduce Oxygen into the vat.
Depending on where you live, i.e., temperature and humidity levels, the vat can take anywhere from 5 – 10 days to become viable. By viable I mean ready to dye fibers.
Fermentation vats need to be kept warm while reducing. I keep my vat, a stainless steel pot that is covered with a lid, in my studio oven (gas) where the pilot light is continuously on, about 98 degrees F.
The vat needs to be kept at body temperature during the reduction phase.
If you do not have a dedicated oven, I recommend using either a heating pad, with a temperature control knob, or a high quality fish tank heater with digital temperature controls.
 Chopped Madder Root
 Wheat Bran  Madder Root added to warm water in bucket. Initially it floats at the top of the water’s surface.  The Bran now added to the vat. The bran floats on top of the madder root until they have been sufficiently stirred together, eventually sinking to the bottom of the vat.  Soda Ash has now been added to the vat. The vat has a foamy look from the bubbling action of the soda ash. The mixture has been blended, to ensure that the soda ash does not solidify on the bottom of the bucket. WARNING: Always add your acids and bases to water, never the other way around! Doing so can result in harmful reactions that can cause injury.  Natural Indigo added to the vat. The Madder and Bran are still floating at or near the waters surface. The indigo while made into a paste, does not want to dissolve in the water as you can see from the globs hanging on the sides of the bucket. Labels: Bloom, Blue, Bran, Fermentation, Indigo, Madder Root, Vat |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 12:03 PM |
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| Indigo Dyeing Safety Instructions |
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Indigo Vat Safety Instructions
DO NOT TOUCH YOUR FACE OR EYES WHEN HANDLING LYE, SODA ASH, THIOX, OR ANY CHEMICAL!!!
Lye Handling Instructions
NEVER add water to Lye (Sodium hydroxide). You will create a dangerous reaction doing so. ALWAYS add your Lye (Sodium hydroxide) to “cold” water.
Once the Lye is added to the “cold” water the water will become very hot from the chemical reaction! This reaction will cause your utensils and vat container to become hot. Have hot pads or insulated gloves for handling hot equipment.
Make sure that your container can withstand high temperatures.
Read safety instructions that came with your Lye (Sodium hydroxide).
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) is dangerous! Extreme caution must be used when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide). Lye (Sodium hydroxide) will cause serious burns to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes.
A respirator is required when handling lye(Sodium hydroxide) products as inhalation of the fumes can cause serious burns to the nose and mouth (mucous membranes)
Wear protective gloves, such as latex or nitrile gloves, when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide). Lye (Sodium hydroxide) can cause serious burns to the skin, especially if your skin is moist! The lye (Sodium hydroxide) will start reacting with the moisture on your skin immediately, causing serious burns.
NOTE: Make sure that your gloves are proper fitting, and not too lose, as an ill fitted glove can lead to accidents.
Wear safety goggles/glasses when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide)! This is to prevent any of the lye liquid/fumes from entering the eyes.
NOTE: Do not touch your face, eyes, or ears when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide) products!
Wash your hands thoroughly for five minutes, and upper arms, after working with lye (Sodium hydroxide). You want to make sure that your hands are completely free of chemical before touching any other parts of your body to prevent burns.
Do NOT use with aluminum or cheap stainless steel containers or utensils. Do NOT put lye into an a cast iron pot!
FIRST AID: wash burned area with cool water for 15-20 minutes. Call or seek emergency help for burns. Seek medical attention immediately.
If swallowed seek medical attention immediately. Do NOT induce vomiting!!!
Keep Lye (Sodium hydroxide) away from children and small pets.
IF a spill should occur sweep of lye and dispose of down the sink drain with copious amounts of cold water.
This ALSO applies to Thiox, Indigo extract, Soda Ash or any mordant, assist, or chemical when you are working in the studio.
Thiox will burn your skin wash immediately with water.
Work in a well ventilated area, I prefer to work out of doors with the wind blowing away from me.
Wear a respirator when working with Natural Dye Extracts, Mordants, and Dye Assists
DO NOT PUT WATER INTO YOUR THIOX POWDER AS THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS CREATING A TOXIC CLOUD OF GAS!!!
Rather using a studio dedicated teaspoon place your thiox into the indigo vat.
Labels: Ash, Instructions, Lye, Safe, Safety, Soda, Soda Ash, Studio, Thiox |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 12:01 PM |
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| Indigo Dyeing using a Lye or Soda Ash vat |
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Dye Materials Needed
1 ounce Indigo extract or Indigo chunks
1 cup Soda Ash or Lye (I HIGLY recommend using Soda Ash NOT Lye~!)
2 Tablespoons Thiourea dioxide or Thiox
Water
Equipment needed:
Respirator – you only get one set of lungs! Wear a respirator when handling dye powders, mordants, and dye assists~!
Gloves – wear heavy duty kitchen or dyeing gloves when handling the indigo ingredients (See safety Instructions Below)
Stock Pot 18 quarts or bigger, can be Stainless Steel or Enamel the indigo vat will react with aluminum so I don’t recommend using aluminum pots for creating the vat.
Scale for weighing dyes and chemicals – again studio dedicated!
Measuring spoons, measuring cups, wisk for stirring
Jar – wide mouth pint jar for making indigo paste
Spoon, studio dedicated, for stirring the vat
Tongs for retrieving your fabrics, fibers, etc.
Lingerie bag for small items you wish to find in the vat again the bag makes them easier to retrieve
Water for your vat, rinsing, and for oxidizing
Vinegar – helps to restore the pH balance of wool and silk fibers/fabrics
pH papers/strips for testing the pH of your vat.
Heat source
Clothesline for hanging fabrics onto to help fabric oxidize faster.
Natural Indigo Chemical Reduction Mini-Vat Instructions:
1. READ Safety Instructions before Beginning the Indigo Vat!
2. Fill your vat container with water you don’t need to heat the vat at this point. ALLOW TO SIT OVERNIGHT, doing this allows the oxygen to dissipate from the vat.
3. Place 1 ounce Natural Indigo powder (if you are working with hard chunk indigo it will have to be ground down first) into a suitable container.
4. Add just enough hot water until you get a paste – preferably lump free (I use a dedicated wide mouth pint jar for this solution.
5. Add soda ash or lye to the vat water - NEVER add water to your soda ash or lye ALWAYS add the soda ash or lye to the water!!!
6. Slowly add the indigo paste to the vat solution
7. Stir to dissolve NOTE this may take quite a bit of stirring, heating the vat at this point also helps with dissolving the paste faster.
8. Next add thiox to the vat solution stir very little so as to avoid adding Oxygen to the vat.
9. DO NOT BOIL YOUR VAT as this will cause bubble formation and will introduce Oxygen into the vat.
10. REMOVE HEAT after 30 minutes
11. Cover vat and allow to sit until reduction is complete.
12. Reduction is complete when your vat turns a yellow to yellowish pea green color.
13. If your vat is still blue after 24 hours then you have too much Oxygen in your vat add thiox to the vat in small increments, a few grains of thiox at a time, to further reduce the vat.
14. If you reduce the vat too far then gently stir the vat with one or two swirls of the spoon and allow to sit for 30 minutes.
15. You will need to test the pH of the vat to see if the pH is correct
16. pH should be 10.0 – 11.5
· cottons 11.0-11.5
· wool and silk 10.5-11.0 preferably closer to 10.5
17. Adjust pH by adding small amounts, half teaspoon at a time, of soda ash to your vat, even is you created a lye vat do NOT add more lye to the vat at this point.Labels: Ash, Blue, Botanical, Dyeing, Fermentation, Indigo, Lye, Natural, Soda, Vegetable |
| posted by k baxter packwood @ 11:58 AM |
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| About Me |
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Name: k baxter packwood
Home: Midwest, United States
About Me: I am a Surface Designer and Fiber Artist and I use the quilt as my medium of choice. However, you wouldn't want to put one of my quilts on your bed.For the past 15 years I have been dyeing only with natural dyes. I teach surface design using natural dyes, rust dyeing, compost dyeing and other surface design techinques.
See my complete profile
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